Moisturising your skin

Moisturising your skin is an essential part of your skincare routine. You usually need more than one type of moisturiser depending on the time of day and the season. At night you apply a moisturiser that helps skin recover from the day’s challenges. Therefore the moisturiser should have more nurturing oils and active ingredients to help calm and soothe the skin. There are of course so many moisturisers on the market and so it’s important to become familiar with what is best for your skin; in particular what ingredients you should be avoiding. It’s good that some products list any ‘nasty’ ingredients on the product label that aren’t in the product. 

Some examples are Parabens (a type of preservative), Mineral Oil (a type of emollient), Propylene Glycol (a type of humectant) and over powering fragrances. So, although we need the abovementioned type of ingredients in a moisturiser; we have to be aware that some ingredients should not be used in skincare products because they have been found to have adverse effects. Therefore it’s great when the product label lists these ingredients as not being contained in the product. It is a good guide as it means that you’re closer to choosing the best moisturiser for you. The product label may also state the skin type that the product is applicable for. There are moisturisers that are more applicable for dry or sensitive skin and others for oily or combination skin.

A moisturiser can consist of a combination of ingredients where some are in an ‘oil’ group and others are in a ‘water’ group. We know that oil and water don’t mix so in order to get the benefits of both groups in a moisturiser there are ingredients called emulsifiers which have varying degrees of affinity towards oil and water, thus having the power to ‘hold’ the two groups together. Emollients are usually oil based ingredients and so they are part of the ‘oil group’. Emollients work to condition and protect your skin in order to relieve skin dryness. Examples are Shea butter, Macadamia Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Sweet Almond Oil and Avocado Oil. 

A moisturiser with a higher emollient loading is beneficial for dry skin types. You may want to use a cream moisturiser and apply it on damp skin so that it can seal in the moisture on your skin. Humectants are ingredients that help to draw water from the environment and hold it in your skin in order to make it more hydrated. Humectants are part of the ‘water group’ in a moisturiser and some examples are Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid and Aloe Vera. A good moisturiser will contain both emollients and humectants at varying levels depending on skin type.

Different skin types call for a variation in the percentages of the ‘oil group’ and ‘water group’ in a moisturising product. For example, oily skin requires a moisturiser that has a lower oil loading. If a product label states that it is suitable for all skin types, then the oils in the product are at a level that may suffice most skin types but may not really meet the total needs of people with either very dry skin or very oily skin. It’s like using a 2-in-1 shampoo & conditioner. It’s really not going to meet the cleansing and conditioning needs of all hair types and lengths; especially if you have long hair as it’s not going to give you the same conditioning that a stand-alone conditioner would. Therefore, if you have specific needs due to your skin being very dry or very oily, then you’re better off looking for a product that addresses those needs.

I have combination skin but it has a tendency to get quite dry during the colder months. I’m also quite sensitive when it comes to essential oils, so I need to be careful when they’re used in skincare products. Therefore, I usually look for moisturisers that are either fragrance free or have a mild scent. The moisturiser that I’m currently using for my evening skincare routine is suitable for all skin types. It’s called Sukin, Moisture restoring night cream. The great thing about this moisturiser is that it has a light scent, so it doesn’t knock you out when you apply it to your face. 

Additionally, it doesn’t contain ingredients that have been highlighted to have negative effects. This moisturiser has a good consistency so it’s easy to apply. There’s also Sukin, Sensitive calming night cream which doesn’t have any fragrance component and so it is more applicable for people with sensitive skin. It’s important to note that you don’t have to buy expensive moisturisers in order to get a substantial effect on your skin. Just remember that hydrating your skin is a key factor, so look for a moisturiser that contains humectants as previously noted. It’s also important to remember that whenever you buy a new product, ensure that you do a spot test first before applying it to your face. In my next post I’ll focus on day moisturisers and a bit more on the ingredient list.

My skin care routine                               

Following on from the previous post, I mentioned some of the everyday environmental stresses that our skin is subjected to. In addition there is makeup that many apply daily to their face. Makeup in particular clogs pores and can irritate the skin depending on how sensitive we are to the products. These effects can disturb the natural skin process. It’s therefore important to ensure that makeup is removed effectively before going to bed. Under no circumstances should you be wearing makeup to bed, no matter how tired you are.

Another consideration is skin type. There are five skin types: normal, combination, oily, dry and sensitive skin. The drier and more sensitive skin is, the more likely it is to contend with ongoing issues such as redness, flaking and itchiness. On top of that we are exposed to so many skin care products as well as dealing with environmental factors which take a toll on our skin. As a result, our skin becomes sensitized. Unfortunately certain ingredients in topical products can cause sensitization, meaning that these ingredients can break down the skin’s protective layer and trigger the skin to react in a negative way. Examples are fragrances, essential oils and preservatives. More on that later…

So how many steps are required in a skincare routine? As previously mentioned, it depends on your skin type, lifestyle and environmental factors. The number of steps can be kept to a minimum but the types of products used will change accordingly. If no makeup is used, then an example of a minimal routine is light cleansing followed by a splashing of cool water to tone the skin then finish with moisturisation. If your skin is feeling very dry, simply cleanse with warm water then splash with cool water to tone followed by moisturisation. Removing the cleanser from your skincare routine will help to restore the skin’s natural oils. When applying the moisturiser, it’s an opportunity to stimulate circulation by gently massaging the moisturiser into the skin in a circular motion. When applying around the eyes, gently pat into the area.

If makeup is used, the first step is to remove it with makeup wipes, cleansing oil or cream cleanser. I usually place some of the night moisturiser that I use on a cotton pad and use it to remove my makeup. For waterproof makeup, the use of an oil like jojoba oil or coconut oil is effective. Then follow with light cleansing to remove any residue and then tone with some cool water followed by moisturisation. 

I’ll talk more about moisturisation in my next post.

Less is more for skin care                                                                                                                                                                        

We want to do the best for our skin but with so many products on the market along with beauty tips on the best skin care routine to follow, it can be quite overwhelming.  It’s good to stop and think about what we are putting on our skin and ask, “is this really necessary?” because, we don’t want to burden our skin with too many ingredients. Keeping things simple is the best approach. The idea that ‘less is more’ is a good guide to keep in mind when it comes to maintaining skin health.

So, we ask ourselves, “how many steps are required in a skincare routine?”  Well, if we keep in mind that skin has its own cleansing and protective mechanism, then keeping things simple is the way to go. Our body produces the nutrients and protective barrier that the skin needs. It also rejuvenates itself through desquamation (shedding of dead skin cells).  This is a natural cycle that takes place approximately every 30 days. The upper layer of skin is shed and new skin is revealed. With such complex mechanisms, it’s like our skin is magical!

The last thing we want is to do anything that will cause our skin to be ‘out of whack’. Over cleansing can cause depletion of nutrients and may result in the skin becoming dry and irritated, thus disrupting skin health.  If we lived in an ideal world we wouldn’t need to do much to our skin because it would take care of itself.  Unfortunately we have to contend with the elements of the environment. Pollution can be harsh on skin. This includes removal of the skin’s protective layer, clogging of pores, irritation and dryness.

In particular the seasons can greatly affect skin health. In winter time our skin becomes very dry due to dry air and low humidity levels. This causes skin to become dry, irritated and scaly. In summer we are subjected to damaging UV rays that can lead to leathery skin, sun spots, wrinkles and the dreaded skin cancer. Unfortunately our body can’t repair all of this damage. It’s therefore important that our skincare routine addresses these elements so that we can maximise on skin health.

Stay tuned for recommendations on simple approaches to maintain or attain skin health through routines and products that don’t add to skin ‘stress’.